The sun is still hiding behind Piz Muragl as we secure our bikes in a train compartment. For bike aficionados Sidonie Jolidon, René Wildhaber and Tenjing Gurung, this bike tour does not begin on mountain bikes at Pontresina station, but in the world-famous red train that takes everyone along the UNESCO World Heritage route to Ospizio Bernina – the start of the tour. The cosy warmth of the train compartment gives way to the invigorating morning freshness at an altitude of 2,253 metres. After a quick glance at the descent, Tenjing starts pedalling and the group follows him cheerfully.
*Please note that capacity for bikes on trains is very limited. Waiting times may occur. Bikes cannot be transported on the Bernina Express.
Difficult
Top to Bottom 2.0 starts at Ospizio Bernina. The first descent leads via the Poschiavino Trail to Poschiavo, then comfortably back to Ospizio Bernina with the RhB and on the second descent to Pontresina.
56.77 km
6:30 h
304 hm
2078 hm
Those who have already explored this region by bike usually ride along Lago Bianco and continue towards Alp Grüm. However, the Top to Bottom 2.0 tour focuses on new trails. After a short climb, the route first leads downhill on the right-hand side of the Bernina Pass road and then on the left-hand side. As the wheels whir, René takes a look at the surrounding landscape. There is not a soul to be seen far and wide – because the slightly longer and more technically demanding descent via the Poschiavino Trail is much less well known than the classic Bernina Express route. However, it is all the more impressive in terms of scenery. Mighty sandstone formations rise from the nearby gorge as the group approaches the La Motta customs house. Italy is not the destination, but the Italian influence is becoming increasingly noticeable. At the mountain village of Pedecosta, it's not just the language that changes, becoming increasingly Italian, but also the terrain: the bumpy trails of stones and roots give way to gentle paths across meadows and fields. Finally, the bikes roll along cobbled streets straight into the piazza of Poschiavo. Before saying ‘arrivederci’, a refreshing drink – or, as Sidonie surprises her companions, a ‘gelato’ – is a must: a little piece of ‘bella vita’ in the immediate vicinity of the Engadin.
The trio could spend hours enjoying the midday sun on one of the many restaurant terraces in the piazza, but the train is calling for the second time. At Poschiavo station, the bikes are loaded back onto the carriages. Now it's time to travel up the Bernina line again to the Ospizio Bernina. This provides Tenjing with so many photo opportunities that he almost misses his stop without the vehement shouts of René and Sidonie.
For the second time on this tour, we'll switch from the train to the bike. The route follows the technical Lago Bianco Trail, leading along the lake of the same name and along the gently sloping valley on the left side of the Bernina Pass road. Especially on this section of the tour, you'll encounter many hikers, especially during peak season and on weekends. And since the paths and trails in Graubünden are equally accessible to all, the motto here is also: Fairtrail. Surrounded by glaciers and the mountain panorama already seen on the first train ride, bikers find themselves in the heart of the Bernina Glaciers adventure region.
Those in a hurry can learn more about the glaciers of the Bernina massif at the Diavolezza valley station. Before that, the single trails «Arlas» and «Alp Bondo» will once again make the hearts of all mountain bike fans beat faster. After a few flat trail sections, the flowing Morteratsch Trail winds its way through the God Chapütschöl, accompanied by the roaring waters of the Cascada da Bernina.
Once at the Morteratsch Alpine Cheese Dairy, visitors can not only watch the cheesemaker at work, but also sample local dairy products and many other homemade delicacies for themselves.
Now Sidonie, René and Tenjing have earned a reward. The question is: where? Pontresina offers various terraces where you can round off your day of biking in style: the Sporthütte at the Sporthotel, the Gondolezza or the terrace of the Hotel Bernina offer the perfect combination of views and culinary delights. The Hotel Maistra 160 and the pavilion of the Hotel Kronenhof also offer cool drinks and snacks to round off the day perfectly. But the decision has been made: first it's time for the best Engadin nut cake – luckily, the Konditorei Kochendörfer is right on the way. Afterwards, the group can put their feet up at the Pop-Up Plazza Bellavita (please note: visitors must provide their own food). And to round off the day in style, there's a little more Italian flair with a delicious pizza at Giardin at the end of the village.
Morteratsch Alpine Cheese Dairy
Alpine brunch, cheese making show, whey bath - cheese for all the senses
Restaurant Sporthütte
Rustic, romantic restaurant of the Sporthotel Pontresina with Graubünden cuisine and a sunny terrace
Restaurant Gondolezza - sun terrace
Into cheese heaven with fondue and raclette!
Locanda Bernina
The cosy Engadin parlour in the Hotel Bernina is the meeting place for guests and locals
Restaurant & Bar Hotel Maistra 160
The gastronomy at Hotel Maistra 160 is stylish but casual – informal but professional, cool but cozy
Grand Hotel Kronenhof - Pavillon
Tasty specialties or a light snack in the historic pavilion
Kochendörfer's Hotel Albris
Fresh cuisine, high-quality products which are presented beautifully but simply
From Piz Nair to Lej da Champfèr. From the very top to the very bottom. From Piz Nair to Lake Champfèr, over rugged scree slopes to gentle meadows – that's the Top to Bottom Tour.
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