Skating into Spring
Wenn die Frühlingssonne am Tag die oberste Schneeschicht zum Schmelzen bringt und die noch kalten Temperaturen in der Nacht diese wieder härten – dann kann man nach einigen Tagen Firnskaten. Einen exakten Zeitpunkt vorauszusagen ist schwierig und auch das Firnen will gelernt sein – denn diese Art von Langlauf übt man auf nicht präpariertem Gelände aus.
Spring is coming, nature is slowly waking up from hibernation and many winter sports enthusiasts are packing away their equipment. But not the cross-country skiers: the spring-like weather heralds a new season for them. When the sun shines brightly during the day and the temperatures climb out of the minus range, the top layer of snow melts. At night this freezes again and after a few days a solid blanket of so-called firn snow forms. For cross-country skiers this means that they can leave the groomed trails and head out into the countryside on their narrow skis. Where it would otherwise be impossible to make any progress in the deep powder snow, the firn snow now offers an ideal surface for skating. This is also the case on the Bernina Pass, the connection between the Engadin and the Puschlav. In winter it is mainly snowkiters who whizz across the plains, powered by the wind. Professional athlete Nadine Fähndrich has been on cross-country skis since she was two years old. However, as soon as the conditions are right for snow skiing, cross-country skiers are also drawn to the heights.
From the valley station of the Diavolezza cable car to Lago Bianco there are beautiful areas for firn skating with the necessary respect for the alpine dangers. It is not advisable to skate over Lago Bianco, as the lake can have different ice conditions.
Unlimited freedom
Nadine and Markus Fähndrich also answered the call of the snow on this day in April. The name Fähndrich is well known in the cross-country skiing scene. Markus Fähndrich, now 61, represented Switzerland at two World Championships and twice at the Winter Olympics in the 1980s. After the end of his career, the Lucerne native moved to the Engadin and opened the Fähndrich Sport sports shop in Pontresina, later adding his own cross-country skiing school. His niece Nadine, now 25, is still in the middle of her professional career, has taken part in three World Championships so far and competed for Switzerland at the 2018 Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang. She first stood on cross-country skis as a 2-year-old and has since spent countless weeks in the Engadin, on family holidays or in training camps.
For Nadine, the appeal of firn skating lies in the freedom it offers: "With firn skating, you can run wherever you want, instead of always having to stay in the prescribed track," she says. Her uncle agrees, adding: "Especially on the Bernina Pass, it's fantastic to be able to run in the middle of the mountains." In good conditions, the entire area from the valley station of the Diavolezza cable car to the end of Lago Bianco can be skied. And here, at an altitude of 2328 meters, winter can be particularly stubborn. "There were years when you could cross-country ski on the Bernina Pass until the beginning of May," says Markus Fähndrich.
The early bird
Heading out into open terrain on cross-country skis sounds like an adventure reserved only for the pros. But firn skating does not require any special technique, and is therefore also possible for less experienced skiers, Nadine and Markus agree. However, it is worth setting your alarm clock a little earlier in the morning. Because in the warm rays of the spring sun, the firn snow begins to thaw again around midday, becoming wet and heavy. This makes firn skiing a seasonal and time-limited pleasure.