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Rom – Via Veneto

Man kann Rom eigentlich nicht denken, ohne es gesehen zu haben. Antikes Herz einer Weltmacht, religiöses Zentrum und dann noch die Hauptstadt Italiens. Worthülsen, Geschichtsunterricht, bis man eines Tages im Taxi sitzt und sagt: „Via Veneto, bitte!“ „Bello“, sagt der Fahrer. Ob ich Fellinis „Roma“ gesehen habe? „Nein.“ Und „La Dolce Vita?“ „Ja.“ „Bello!“ Der Fahrer sagt, die Szene, in der Marcello Mastroianni mit Anouk Aimée an der Bar lehnt, habe sich genau hier abgespielt. Fellini, Visconti, Bellucci, er spricht von so vielen Filmen, Autos, Kleidern, Frauen und Männern, jede Aufnahme ein Schwarzweissbild, das man sich aufhängen kann. Diese Strasse sei das Zentrum des gesellschaftlichen Lebens der 1950er und 1960er Jahre gewesen, eine Meile aus Fleisch und Blut, neuen Alfas, wie dem von Pier Paolo Pasolini. Er zählt Namen auf: Umberto Eco, Jean-Paul Belmondo, Ursula Andress, Cary Grant, Monica Vitti. Ava Gardner, Kirk Douglas, Liz Taylor. Und Frank Sinatra, der Ava Gardner auf den Spuren ihrer im Nachtleben verlorenen Diamanten suchte. Aber der Grösste von allen sei Mastroianni gewesen, er habe Sophia Loren unzählige Male auf der Leinwand geheiratet, und er habe immer hier gesessen: Der Fahrer zeigt auf eine zusammengekettete Bestuhlung: „Gran Caffè Roma“. Und hier, im Restaurant „Doney“ soll 1965 der übergewichtige ägyptische König Faruk nach einem Abendessen zusammengebrochen sein.

Heute stehen an dieser Strasse auch so langweilige Dinge wie Botschaften und Ministerien. Es ist eine leere kosmische Kurve geworden, kein Boulevard mehr, mit dem „Hotel Excelsior“ zur Rechten und „Harry’s Bar“ zur Linken, wenn man in Richtung Villa Borghese fährt, so wie wir. Früher sei hier der Teufel los gewesen auf der Via Veneto, sehen und gesehen werden. Internationaler Jetset. Wir fahren eine ganze Weile, am Denkmal für Vittorio Emanuele, dem Nationaldenkmal, frage ich, ob das noch die Via Veneto sei. „Nein“, sagt der Fahrer, „wir machen einen Umweg“, wir seien schon auf dem richtigen Weg, und der richtige italienische Weg sei eben manchmal ein Umweg, was habe man davon, wenn man immer gleich ankomme. Ob ich „La Grande Bellezza“ gesehen habe?

2a:T6da,

Paris – Boulevard du Montparnasse

Paris steht am Anfang von allem. Mit Paris ging alles los. Diese Stadt änderte mein Leben. Sie machte mich reich, denn sie brachte mich zur Kunst. Seit Paris weiss ich, wozu das alles gut ist und warum das alles passiert, also all das, was vor Paris nie so aussah, als würde es passieren. Die Stadt gab mir Augen – oder lehrte sie, alles wie Paris zu sehen. Seit Paris will ich werden, was ich bin: Ein Mensch, der sich in Lissabon von seinen Leidenschaften ernährt und deshalb ab und an auf der Baustelle schaffen muss. Das hat Paris schon mit vielen gemacht. Das Besondere in meinem Fall: Ich war vorher noch nie da, bin nur einmal durchgefahren, stand im Stau, habe von den Champs Élysées aus den Eiffelturm gesehen und mir an einer Raststätte die Wertsachen klauen lassen. Aber ich hatte alles über Paris gelesen, alles, was man lesen konnte über den Umbruch in die Moderne, diese letzte grosse Jahrhundertwende, die Belle Époque und den Krieg, der alles zerstörte und die Goldenen Zwanziger werden liess.

Ich weiss, in welcher Etage Vincent van Gogh wohnte, wo sich Monet und Renoir kennenlernten, in welchen Kneipen sich Maurice Utrillo besoff - und an welchen Strassenecken Paul Verlaine nach wie viel Absinth kotzte, weiss ich auch. Ich weiss, in welche Cafés Henry Miller sich setzte, wenn er sich Café au Lait leisten konnte. Ich las Francis Carco, Arthur Rimbaud, Joseph Roth, Murger, Breton, Hemingway. Sie alle hingen hier ab, „Café de la Rotonde“ oder „Dôme“, Hauptsache Boulevard du Montparnasse. Die Bürgersteige unter den Markisen waren die Bühnen ihrer Zeit. Auch heute noch schön, selbst wenn ein Citroën „Picasso“ vorbeifährt.

2b:T733,

Neapel - Via Toledo

Eine klassische Einkaufsstrasse. Immer voll, es sei denn, man geht sie am kühlen Morgen eines heissen Tages, 1,2 Kilometer von der Piazza Dante auf die Fontana del Carciofo zu, um im „Gran Caffè Gambrinus“ zu frühstücken. Man kommt fast an der Piazza Bellini, an der Galeria und der Oper vorbei, wenn man kurz vor der Fontana del Carciofo durch die Galeria gegangen ist. Am Ende steht das „Gambrinus“. Dort haben sie den schönsten Fensterplatz der Welt. Salon, zweiter Tisch links. Man sitzt vor den Augen gemalter Frauen an offenen Fenstern, blättert in der Zeitung, hat den Tag vor sich und schaut auf den frühen Platz, der sich in der Sonne wärmt, wie schon viele hundert Jahre zuvor. Freundet man sich, beim Pizza essen oder bei dem Versuch, die schönsten Monumente zu finden, mit echten Neapolitanerinnen und Neapolitanern an, lernt man diesen oder jenen kennen, muss hier und dort essen und unbedingt noch dies und jenes probieren. Man landet in dunklen Hinterzimmern, fährt ohne Helm auf fremden Motorrädern, betritt nationale Monumente, die mit einem Zwinkern bezahlt werden, gratuliert auf Hochzeitsfeiern, soll irgendeine Cousine heiraten, trauert bei Beerdigungen, besucht private Theaterproben. Man kann nicht entkommen. Man wird hineingezogen ins Leben der Via Toledo, in die ich jetzt die Menschenmassen aus dem Spanischen Viertel strömen. Man wird Teil davon, verschwimmt, ist ein Tropfen im Meer. Reisst sich los und verläuft sich durch Gassen mit den vielen Buchläden, die nach Mitternacht auch Bars sind. Man sollte doch in der Via Toledo bleiben, nicht hinunter in die Bar „La Nova Central“ gehen, nur noch einen trinken, auf einem Platz, der sich vor einer dunklen Kirche ausbreitet. Auf den Tischen Kerzen, gegen die Durchsichtigkeit der Nacht.

2c:Tbac,

Mailand – Via Alessandro Manzoni

Endlich Sonne in Mailand. Nicht gut gekleidet aufgrund des schlechten Wetters. Lebensmittelpunkt Mode. Einkaufen und sich betrinken und endlich diese Pizzadinger, von denen alle reden. Die kalte Bergluft fliegt ins Tal. Die Strassenbahnen fahren gerade irgendwohin.
Es wird dunkel, lange bevor der Tag zu Ende geht, und es ist angenehm in der Via Alessandro Manzoni, wenn die letzten Modesüchtigen erschöpft aus den Geschäften kommen und ihre Einkäufe nach Hause schleppen oder schleppen lassen. Das stille Licht der Auslagen fällt leise auf das Pflaster, und man schlendert eingehakt, den Kopf im Kragen, an den Schaufenstern vorbei, wirft einen glücklichen Blick hinein, in die Welt der toten Dinge. Es ist schön, jung und verliebt in diese Stadt zu sein, ohne etwas kaufen zu müssen. Es war das erste Mal, dass ich wirklich hier war, denn damals wusste ich noch nicht, wer Puccini war, Verdi und Antonio Mancini, der das Aristokratenpack wenigstens in Tränen malt. Ich erinnere mich nur an Regen, eine halbtransparente Gardine, Nebel und den Park, den ich von meinem Fenster aus im Nebel sehen konnte. Heute strahlt der Park im letzten Licht und heisst Giardini Indro Montanelli. Von hier aus weiter zum Dom, vor dem in meiner Erinnerung immer jemand „Nothing Else Matters“ von Metallica spielt. Schlendernd durch die Galeria und Caffè bei Camparino im Stehen. Tragische, schöne Schwere.

Ich könnte jetzt noch über eine andere Strasse schreiben, aber die liegt in einem Dorf, 1‘800 Meter über dem Meer. Sie führt an Hotelschlössern vorbei, kostet mehr als 30.000 Franken den Quadratmeter und präsentiert die Welt der toten Dinge rechts und links in ihren Schaufenstern. Bottega Veneta, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Loro Piana, Cartier; die weltberühmtesten Designer in einzigartiger Dichte auf der wohl kürzesten Luxusmeile der Welt. Die einzige Dorfstrasse überhaupt, im fünftteuersten Ort Europas, in der man neben Uhren, Pelzen, Gemälden, auch Engadiner Nusstorten und seltene Teesorten kaufen kann, ohne dafür eine Ampel zu überqueren. Man muss also gar nicht nach New York fliegen und kann sich danach im Badrutt’s an der Bar einen, auf den Schreck, hinter die Binde kippen (sind eh bessere Drinks), wenn man dann noch Geld über hat, oder eben nicht und dann erst recht. Für alle, die den Wert einer Sache nicht nur kennen, wenn sie wissen, welches Mass es misst, was es wiegt und wie viel es kostet, es gibt auch etwas Unbezahlbares: den Winter, wenn dicke Flocken fallen und den Aufprall unter den Dingen auf dem Weihnachtsmarkt dämpfen. Im Hintergrund läuft Jazz und manch einer tanzt, als würde er nur den Flocken ausweichen. Nichts ist so teuer, wie umsonst. Die Definition von oben trifft vielleicht nicht ganz auf Dorfstrassen zu, aber viele von denen, die auf den grossen europäischen Strassen unterwegs sind, laufen früher oder später auch über die Via Serlas.

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Madrid – Gran Via

Diese schöne, schwere Strasse mit den mächtigen Fassaden ihrer Geschichte. Die Gestalt dieses Landes ist hier wie nirgendwo sonst eine Erinnerung. Die Häuser sehen aus wie Stockwerkpaläste und die Stockwerkpaläste wie Burgen. Monumental, verziert. Das Edificio Telefónica ist grauenhaft und hat Francos Augen. Tagsüber sind die Fensterläden vom Sommer erschöpft, nachts leuchten einige rot und gelb wie Geheimarchive.

Die Gran Via ist eine Schlucht, die das Leben verschlingt und den Abend rumbringt. Hier treibt man sich herum, wenn die Eitelkeit einen aus dem Schlaf rüttelt und zum Tanzen treibt. Man wacht spät auf und geht noch später zu Bett, obwohl in Spanien rein gar nichts zu spät ist. Die Gran Via hat einen Bypass, den aber kaum jemand entlang geht. Hier fliesst die Hektik der Geschäfte, Besorgungen, Aktivitäten und Themen, bis sich alles erschöpft und verstopft ist. Und dann wieder von vorne.

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- Eine Reise durch die pulsierenden Herzen europäischer Metropolen","summary":"Von der glorreichen Via Veneto in Rom, über die modische Via Alessandro Manzoni in Mailand bis zum inspirierenden Boulevard du Montparnasse in Paris (und der Via Serlas in St. Moritz) – unser Autor schlendert durch die Prachtstrassen Europas. ","lead":"Wenn man nach Prachtstrassen im Internet sucht, findet man: breite, oft geradlinig verlaufende Strassen, die von Bäumen und imposanten Gebäuden gesäumt sind. Wie emotionslos, gäbe es nicht so viel Literatur und Film, durch die manche von ihnen zu Legenden geworden sind. 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